SHOE CARE

"The Modern Shoe Repair Shop"

How much can heels be lowered or raised?

Heel heights are determined during the design process. Generally, it is safe to say a heel can be raised or lowered by a ?al inch. This may not seem significant but you'll be surprised at how much this minor change will change the balance and overall feel of the shoe.

The key to determining the correct height of a heel is in the toe spring. If you take your shoe and put it on a flat surface at eye level the distance between the sole (in the toe area), and the surface is called toe spring. When the toe spring is correct, you should be able slide a pencil under the toe of the shoe. With this in mind, take the heel of the shoe and slide it off the edge of the surface this will enable you to raise or lower the heel. Be sure the sole remains on the surface. Begin to experiment by raising or lowering the heel by, 3/8, inches etc.

You can see how different heel heights will affect the balance as well as the toe spring of the shoe. The lower you make the heel, the more the toe will shoot up. The more you raise the heel, the more the toe will point

Downward .Lowering the heels:

Even after I demonstrate this to my customers, some of them still reply: " I don't care" or, "these heels are three inches high just cut them down one inch." In such cases, I explain the damage and effects that will occur. In addition to being very uncomfortable, the lower you make the heel, the more it will slant forward to wards the ball of your foot. Now, imagine putting your weight on it. One of two things will happen:

1. The shank will snap. (The shank is a steel brace laminated between the sole and upper, its purpose is to support the heel.)

2. You will snap the heel itself. Also, if you make the heel to low, a gap will appear in the arch area between your foot and the shoe. This gap is caused when the angle of the heel is changed excessively.

Raising the heels:

The same principle holds true for raising the heels. A ?al inch is usually the maximum. Exceeding a ?al of an inch will not necessarily damage the shoe, rather it may cause your foot to slide forward inside the shoe cramping your toes and making the heel of the shoe feel loose.

Squeaks:

Squeaks are caused by two materials rubbing against each other. During the manufacturing process, in order to bond the vamp to the vamp liner or, the soles to the vamp, cement is applied to the various parts of the shoe. In some cases the glue guns used run dry. In others the cement dries to quickly. In either case the result will be the same. When you wear the shoe the areas that were not glued properly will rub against each other causing the shoe to squeak.

Normally, you will feel vibrations in the area where the shoe make a squeaking noise. This makes it simple to show the shoe repair person where the sound is coming from. In other cases, you will have to walk around with the shoe repair person present in a quiet area in order to find exactly where the squeak is originating from.

If the squeak is coming from an area that is easily accessible the repairman will simply open the area, apply contact cement on both sides and put it back together making sure the area bonds securely. If the squeak is coming from an area that is not easily accessible (such as the top of the vamp area) they may have to take a good part of the shoe apart which can become cost prohibitive.

Remember the squeak is a result of a defect in the manufacturing process, and it will begin squeak when the shoes are pretty new. In such cases your best option is to return them to the store for a refund or to exchange them for a pair that does not squeak.

Stretching:

What if they do need stretching? Remember, leather and suede have elasticity. It takes some time to permanently stretch these materials. When a shoe salesperson takes the shoes in the back for a few minutes and claims to have stretched them, don't be surprised if they hurt the first time you wear them.

Shoes can be damaged if they are not stretched properly. Putting too much pressure on the material can cause unsightly stretch wrinkles, sole separation and tears on the amps. I have even seen seams split from excessive pressure.

Here are three suggestions depending on the circumstances:
If the problem is not severe, visit your local shoe repair shop and purchase "liquid shoe stretch" which also comes in an aerosol spray. This is a highly effective and safe product. Apply a liberal amount inside the shoe. Saturate the liner in the area where they are tight, and wear them while they are wet. The liquid stretch makes the leather more pliable and the pressure of your foot will gradually stretch the shoe.

How to use your stretcher:

Spray liquid stretch inside the shoe in the area that needs to be stretched. Hold the shoe in the palm of your hand, with the sole facing down. Insert the stretcher inside the shoe. Be sure the stretcher is as far forward as it can go. Holding the shoe with one hand, begin to turn the handle with the other. Keep turning until the upper feels taught. Give it another ? turn and let settle for two hours.

Try on your shoe. If it needs to be stretched more, repeat process as many times as necessary. BE PATIENT! It WILL work! Stretchers are sold in singles, not pairs so allow enough time to do the pair of shoes if necessary.

So, you just purchased a brand new pair of shoes and you would like to know the best preventive maintenance to ensure maximum life.

There are four recommendations:

1. Use cedar shoe trees; They will keep your shoes in shape, help straighten out ugly creases that develop from normal wear, and dry the liners between wear.

2. Spray a light coat of waterproof on the uppers and around the seam between the sole and upper.

3. Always apply a coat of polish before your first wearing (leather shoes only). Polish restores oils to the leather, which keeps it supple and more flexible.

4. Sole guards (optional but highly effective):
A sole guard is a thin piece of rubber that is applied on top of the original sole. It protects the leather sole, it's waterproof, non-slip and will also cushion the ball of your foot. In most cases sole guards (as thin as they are) will last twice as long as the original leather sole. Sole guards must be applied by a qualified shoe repair professional, so don't try this at home.

Suggested Maintenance:

. Always use a shoehorn:
This will prevent the counters from crushing, which is a molded material (similar to fiber glass). Its purpose is to shape and support the heel. Shoehorn's also protect the heel linings from unnecessary abuse.

2. Polish:

Always keep a 'fresh' coat of polish, cream, or moisturizer on your footwear. Even our hands tend to dry and crack when exposed to excess moisture. Think of leather in the same way, except leather no longer has the ability to produce natural oils, which would otherwise keep it moist and supple. Cream polish will penetrate deeper into the grain of leather, while wax tends to coat the surface, lasting longer with a brighter shine. We recommend cream for softer leather and wax for more ridged leather.

Polish should be applied when the leather begins to look dull or feels dry to the touch. Eventually, you may begin to see a streaking, flaking, or blotchiest on the upper. This means the polish has clogged the pores of the leather and caked.

Remedy: An application of polish remover then simply re-apply a fresh coat of polish.

3. Waterproof:

We always recommend an application of waterproof spray to new footwear. This is just an added protection for leather and helps prevent water damage and salt stains. Do not use a silicone-based product on high grade footwear. This tends to darken light to mid-tone leathers and leaves an oily residue which interferes with the ability of the leather to shine well.

Proper sequence: waterproof, then shine. Waterproofing is recommended every 4th to 8th shine depending on weather conditions. The damper the weather is, the more frequent the application.

4. Sole guards (optional):

This is a thin protective rubber sole which is applied to the top of the existing sole to prevent it from wearing out. It also protects the stitching on the soles as well as being non-skid and waterproof. Sole guards also slightly cushion the walk. If applied properly, sole guards can barely be noticed from the side of the shoe. They are the approximate thickness of a penny and in most cases, will actually outlast the factory or replacement sole. They are also much less expensive to replace.

For best results, sole guards should be applied to new or firm soles. Do not use them if your soles are already 'spongy' or soft.

How to check for wear1

Heels

If you look from the side of the heel, you can see the top-lift. Follow the seam between the top lift and base to the rear outside border of the heel. When you are down to the thickness of a dime in that area, it is time for new heels, and you have avoided damage to the base. If you wait until you see the light-colored base at the rear outside borders of the heels, you are causing unnecessary damage to the base.

Soles:

Do not wait until you see a hole. In many cases, if you turn the shoe upside down you will see wear in a circular shape. In other cases, you may not see the wear, but try pressing the center of the sole with your thumb.

If you feel weakness or springiness, it is time to replace the sole and you haven't caused unnecessary damage to any other components of the shoe (such as welts, insoles, or sock liners).

5. Shoe Trees (cedar only):

Cedar wood has an appealing aroma and is very dry in nature. This helps absorb any moisture in the shoe from perspiration or rain seepage. Shoe trees should be installed immediately after removing your shoes; they should dry naturally and not be left near any heat, The trees will also insure that your shoes will dry to their original shape and will help protect the lining as well as the upper.

Always alternate your footwear at least every other day to allow the trees to settle inside your shoes and absorb even the slightest moisture before wearing them again. Never use shoe-trees made of plastic material or shellacked wood. Instead of absorbing moisture, those materials will actually drive the moisture back into the liner, which will lead to a premature deterioration of the leather.

6. Galoshes:

Always wear them in inclement weather.

The object is to keep the leather as dry as possible, and restore the oils with creams and polish on occasion. If you follow these few maintenance procedures, you will be pleasantly surprised at how much life your expensive shoes will have in them.

How to remove scuffs from your light colored leather or vinyl footwear:

If you have scuffs on your summer footwear the only way to get them looking good again is to refinish them. Start off by taking your shoes to a local shoe repair shop. Most shops sell a refinishing spray. Nullify (by Majix) is the most popular one. Match your shoes to the closest color on the chart. You may choose a color a few shades darker if you prefer.

You will also need a bottle of leather prepare and a jar of cream polish. The cream polish should match the color of the refinishing spray as close as possible. The last thing you will need is some masking tape.

MASKING:

apply the masking tape around the border of the sole. The object is to mask the entire border of the shoe where the sole meets the upper. When finished, run your thumbnail in the seam between the upper and sole. Check the entire border of the sole. If you see some areas where the tape is stuck to the upper, take a razor blade and slice the tape between the sole and upper.

( NOTE: use only enough pressure to slice the tape. Be careful not to cut the upper of the shoe.) Now it will be easy to remove any excess tape that may be stuck to the upper.

PREPARING:

Be sure you are in a well ventilated area. With a white rag or very fine steel wool, begin to wash the upper with the prepare. You will see the finish begin to come off the shoe. Continue to wash the shoe evenly. Let dry and repeat the process as many times necessary until the shoe has an even, dull finish.

(NOTE: it is better to use lighter amounts of prepare rather than heavy. You are trying to wash the surface of the upper not saturate it). Let dry thoroughly.

APPLYING THE NEW FINISH:

Again, several light coats are better than a few heavy ones. You may want to use a pair of plastic or rubber gloves for this step. Wedge your index finger and thumb in the heel and for repair of the shoe. Your thumb should be in the heel area. Face the palm of your hand up wards. The sole of the shoe should be facing up as well.

Shake the can of refinishing spray thoroughly. Begin to apply a light even coat of refinishing spray around the entire shoe. Turn your palm down and do the top. Repeat the process as many times as necessary until there is an even color on the shoe without any streaks. Let dry thoroughly, between coats.

When you have completed the spraying process and the shoes are dry, remove the tape from around the soles. Now simply polish with the cream polish. Apply a new coat of cream polish every two or three wearing and your refinished shoes will stay beautiful.

TOUCH UP TIP:

every once in a while a new scuff may appear. Since you already have the exact color spray, shake the can well and apply some spray on the end of a Q-tip brush it evenly over the scuffed area and that will hide it.

The best way to maximize the life of leather upper is also the least expensive.

BASIC LEATHER CARE:

Always keep a fresh coat of polish, cream, or moisturizer 0n your leather footwear. Even our hands tend to dry and crack when exposed to excess moisture. Think of leather in the same way, except leather no longer has the ability to produce natural oils, which would otherwise keep it moist and supple.

Cream polish will penetrate deeper into the grain of the leather, while wax tends to coat the surface, lasting longer with a brighter shine. Cream for softer leathers and wax for more ridged leathers is recommend .

Polish should be applied when the leather begins to look dull or feels dry to the touch. Eventually, you may begin to see a streaking, flaking, or blotchiness on the upper. This means the polish has clogged the pores of the leather and caked.

Remedy: Apply an application of polish remover, let dry, then simply re-apply a fresh coat of polish.

The proper way to apply wax polish:

1. Apply a thin coat of leather cleaner.

2. Let dry.

3. Apply a thin coat of polish working into the leather in a circular motion.

Using a horsehair brush; brush the upper in a back and forth motion until the upper begins to show a dull shine. Repeat steps 2 and 3.

Using the rough side of a professional shine cloth buff the upper until the finish is a uniform luster. You may need someone to help hold the shoe steady with this step.

Using the soft side of the shine cloth repeat step 5 until the desired brightness is achieved.

For a finishing touch coat the soles and heels with sole and edge dressing.

The proper way to apply cream polish:

1. Apply a thin coat of leather cleaner. Let dry.

2. Apply a thin coat of polish working into the leather in a circular motion. The drier the leather the quicker the polish will be
absorbed.

3. With a clean cloth, buff out the leather until the desired luster.

4. Repeat steps 2 and 3.

5. For a finishing touch coat the soles and heels with sole and heel dressing.

Tips on selecting fabric shoes and having them dyed.

One of the most common mistakes sales clerks and customers make when selecting a pair of fabric shoes to be dyed is they assume if a shoe is made of white or light colored fabric it can be dyed. There are three reasons why this is not the case.

1. Most fabrics used today are synthetic. Many synthetics will repel rather than absorb liquids including dyes. The result will be a streak or blotchy finish or the color will not "set" accurately.

2. If the shoe was not intended to be dyed, the manufacturer may have scotch guarded the fabric in order to protect the shoes from becoming soiled.

3. In the manufacturing process sometimes the upper are cemented to the liners with clear cement. The cement tends bleed through the upper material.

The results of cases two and three will be the same as described in the first case.

The safest way to avoid these situations is to look for a claim from the manufacturer that clearly states that the shoes were made for the purpose of being dyed.

DO NOT make the mistake of simply listening to the salesperson unless they would be willing to take the shoes back if they do not take the dye properly.

With the older and still most common dye system there are two swatch books. One is used for a flat or dull finish, the other for satin or shiny finish. If we mixed a unit of dye and applied it to a shiny piece of fabric and a dull piece of fabric you will see how the colors will differ.

Now, lets assume that you are trying to match a dress that is one material, you are comparing it to a color swatch in the dye book that is a second material and the dye will be applied to your shoe that is a third material.

Can you see why dying shoes can be tricky? The older systems have not added new colors in years, while designers are coming out with new shades every year.

Until recently their were no alternatives to make up for the short comings of the dyes. We had to constantly tinker with colors to get them as accurate as possible.

Now for the good news, my supplier told me about a new dye system called "POWERHOUSE DYES" which eliminates the problems explained above. I was anxious to test it out and I must say I have been impressed with it ever since!

There are two differences that make Powerhouse the best dye system available today. First, the dyes are produced to be used on the materials that the shoe manufacturers use today.

Second, the dye manufacturer obtains color samples from the designers a year in advance in order to add a new line of colors which will be current each year. Ask your shoe dyer if he uses POWERHOUSE!

Here are some helpful hints:

1. Make sure the shoes are completely dry before taking them out of the repair shop.

2. Dyed shoes can always be re-dyed a darker color. So if you find yourself with a pair of power blue shoes that you have no use for, keep in mind they can be re-dyed black, dark brown, navy, burgundy etc.

3. Fabric dyes are not waterproof and will stain if they get wet.

4. Check both shoes to be sure there is no glue on them. The dye will not take over the glue.

5. Always compare colors and swatches in natural daylight. Fluorescent lighting has an effect on color that will drastically distort shades.

6. When you purchase your shoes inspect both of them to be sure they are spotless.

From stains to stitching, from sole repair to heel replacement, from shoe and boot laces to complete shoe repair,European is your one stop intern shop for all your shoe repair needs. Most repairs are completed within five working days and priced under $35.00. For specific information about your shoe repair costs pleas coall at (505)332-3267

Size Conversion Chart

Remember1! If your local leather repair company has a problem with what you want repaired, call our (505)332-3267 to discuss the problem with an experienced representative